spring break + a day at dierkes + a day at the taco cave

Haven't posted in a long while, but I didn't want to post about another failed attempt on my long term project, so I just didn't post about anything at all. Seemed like an alright solution at the time, but now I have so so so much to write about. In the past month I have spent time bouldering at Reynolds Creek, Dierkes Lake, Castle Rocks, and most recently I spent a week at Joe's Valley in central Utah.

Catalysis Update: On March 19th I got to a new high point. After sticking the nothing-slopey-crimp I was able to throw for the sloper, the penultimate* hold. It's been over 2 weeks since my last attempt so I'm thinking it is about time I give it another go.

*In my opinion this word should be used way more often.

I climbed with a few friends from Ketchum at Dierkes Lake on March 20th. Finally sent a problem that has for some reason shut me down for over a year. Stoked. Here is a short video that I threw together:

The fallowing day I headed to Castle Rock with Nate Moody and Ryan Guerra. The Taco Cave was packed, usually I wouldn't be psyched on the mass amount of people, but it was a fun day full of sending. It was my first time actually climbing at the Taco Cave (I generally bypass this boulder and opt to pull on the tiny crimps on the Green Wall). I worked some of the moves of Jared's Roof Stand and The Smell, both predicted to be perfect summer projects. Here are a few shots from the day:

Ryan sending Jared's Roof Stand (and no, thats not chalk, it's snow).

Ryan almost flashing The Smell (note: he sent about a week later)!

SPRING BREAK!

The primary goal of this climbing trip for me was unlike previous trips. Even though a small part of me wanted to focus on my ticklist, I decided to treat this trip more as a vacation (ignore school + climb fun problems + live in the dirt = my ‘vacation’). On the drive to Utah we stopped off somewhere a little west of Twin Falls so Nate could ‘drop’ a waterfall. Here's a picture:

This was my first time in Joe’s Valley, but I had been to Triassic 2 years prior. Days 1 and 2 were spent in Triassic, and I wasn’t too thrilled about it, after being there for a few minutes I was ready for Joe’s. Day 3 was spent in New Joe’s. Nate and I worked Big Boy (I really liked this problem, despite not sticking the cruxy-big-boyish move), then Self Service V4. My send of the day was definitely Chips V7. Nate also sent Chips along with Planet of the Apes a V6 that looked waay harder than Chips (ahh grades, gotta love ‘em).

(This is about the time when all the days just blend together.)

Next up was Right Fork. I had two super fun sends at the Mansize area. Porcini or Portobello V7 was by far one of my favorite sends of the trip. To me it was the best of both worlds. The problem combined one of my weaknesses (powerful moves on slopey edges) to one of my strengths (a slightly heady, yet someone relaxing slab/down climb). I also flashed a V5 Dyno here (yeah I know I’m still in disbelief).

Nate’s friend Marcus came down from Salt Lake (aka SL,UT) and we climbed at the Riverside area. My two other favorite sends of the trip were in this area. First we got on Feels Like Grit V5?. Right when I looked at the problem I decided not to use the arête. Sticking (literally) to the super tiny crimps on the face was definitely the preferred method of sending in my opinion. Ahh I love me some slab! Next up was Kelly’s Arête V5(I think). Being kinda highball-ish, I loved it for that reason alone. The movement and committing top out added this climb to my top 3 sends of the trip.

So far I have covered my sends of the trip, so I guess it’s time to go over my (insert word for opposite of send: here). Midway through the week I tried Wills A Fire V6. Within 30 minutes or so I found myself at the top, pumped and reaching for the last slopey dish on the TOP of the boulder… Moments later I was on the pads, WTF?! I ended up EPICing on this problem on the last day (my body was just too tired). Oh well, it’s just a reason to go back. My other “epic fail” of the trip was G2-07 V8. After watching Nate work and send the problem, I started to work it. A few goes later, I found myself throwing for the lip. Realizing that I couldn’t make the span, I got frustrated (internally threw a ‘wo-man-trum’). Probably fell throwing for the lip close to 10 times before I threw in the towel. Again, it’s just another reason to go back. I’m not bitter, but I am definitely a little disappointed in my performance on those 2 problems. In my mind failure is a more motivating force, so I guess it’s time to focus on training again. My goal for the rest of the spring is to master tick-tocks (a super gnar core exercise) and improve my endurance (through traversing/annoying people at the Front by climbing sideways on the bouldering wall, GASP!)

Here are some of my favorite pictures from the week:

Nate on an unknown arête problem in Triassic

A unique way of getting the driver's attention. Filler, Idaho

Overall, the week was just what I needed it to be, an escape from school. Now, I just need to somehow survive the next 6 weeks of classes, then it’s summer(climb-time)!