A Summer of Sending

Since I started climbing it has either been all or nothing, obsessed or completely disinterested. This past year was no exception. I feel like I spent every waking hour this past winter at Snowbird. Whether I was instructing or free-skiing, I was on the hill everyday. By the time May rolled around and it was time to move back to Idaho for the summer I could count, on one hand, the number of times I'd climbed since September. With a new determination to set bouldering aside and commit a full season to sport climbing, I jumped right in and started going to the City of Rocks every weekend. Slowly I started adjusting to being on the sharp end. I red pointed a few 5.10s and started trying some 5.11s.
After being back at it for about a month I decided to try my hand at Gemini, a 5.12a with perfectly crafted crimps. On my third go I fell after my hand just barely grazed the hold on the crux move. (I'd been climbing for six years and that was my first legit whipper.) Once back on the ground, I realized I was more excited than terrified. After a sufficient rest period I tied back in and sent it next go.

Andrew McKean flashing Gemini 5.12a

With a new goal of sending five 5.12s this season and the temps at the City becoming unbearable, it was time to shift to the eastern Idaho crag The Fins. Changing gears from the patina crimps of the City to the perfect limestone pockets of the Fins, I set my sights on Shaken Not Stirred 12a and Ghost in the Shell 12b. With a six day work week, I made the 2 hour drive once a week to get my fix. By late August I sent both of these routes along with a handful of 5.11-'s.

Shaken not Stirred 12a (Photo: Beau Stuart)

Ghost in the Shell 12b (Photo: Andrew McKean)

On September 5th I completed my goal of sending five 5.12s by sending both Chapstick 12a and Martini 12a in the same day. That day I also red pointed an 11a warm-up route that had previously eluded me and on the hike back to the car I told myself it was time to try something harder.

I had put in one top rope go on Pure Rock Fury 5.13b a few weeks prior. At the time I decided it was too hard for me and I wasn't at 'that' level yet. But after the ego boost I got from reaching my previous goal well before I thought I would and spending a few weeks climbing with uber-strong and equally psyched climbers, I decided to give it a go.

On my second go on lead I hung twice! All of a sudden I had a project that I could not stop thinking about. I wanted, more than anything, to send this route. With four monos, super tiny/sharp pockets, and a fun crimp sequence, I decided this route was a perfect project for me. (The fact that it's extremely well protected was an added bonus.)

Pure Rock Fury 13b (Photo: Ian Cavanaugh)

Duck Junk

Here is a little addition to the Swan Balls series.

Swan Balls Part Doo-Doo from steffcarter on Vimeo.

Peachey Revenge

Here is a video of Nate Moody sending Peaches V7.

Nate Moody sending Peaches from steffcarter on Vimeo.

Salmon & Redfish

Beau Stuart and I recently ventured north to Salmon, Idaho to check out some boulders that Nate Moody has been raving about. The temps were in the mid to high 90s all week so bouldering during the day was not an option. The approach to the boulders isn't that long of a hike (if you have 4-wheel-drive), the rock quality is primo, and the boulders seem to go on for miles. Basically what I'm saying is that YOU should go check these awesome granite boulders out... You might want to wait until the fall though.

LOTS of potential.

Beau, Nate and I decided to go to Redfish for the day, rather than wait out the heat in Salmon. Here's a few shots of Beau climbing on the boulders by the Point Campground.

Beau working a dyno by Redfish Lake.

Beau sending a tall line by Redfish Lake.

spring break + a day at dierkes + a day at the taco cave

Haven't posted in a long while, but I didn't want to post about another failed attempt on my long term project, so I just didn't post about anything at all. Seemed like an alright solution at the time, but now I have so so so much to write about. In the past month I have spent time bouldering at Reynolds Creek, Dierkes Lake, Castle Rocks, and most recently I spent a week at Joe's Valley in central Utah.

Catalysis Update: On March 19th I got to a new high point. After sticking the nothing-slopey-crimp I was able to throw for the sloper, the penultimate* hold. It's been over 2 weeks since my last attempt so I'm thinking it is about time I give it another go.

*In my opinion this word should be used way more often.

I climbed with a few friends from Ketchum at Dierkes Lake on March 20th. Finally sent a problem that has for some reason shut me down for over a year. Stoked. Here is a short video that I threw together:

The fallowing day I headed to Castle Rock with Nate Moody and Ryan Guerra. The Taco Cave was packed, usually I wouldn't be psyched on the mass amount of people, but it was a fun day full of sending. It was my first time actually climbing at the Taco Cave (I generally bypass this boulder and opt to pull on the tiny crimps on the Green Wall). I worked some of the moves of Jared's Roof Stand and The Smell, both predicted to be perfect summer projects. Here are a few shots from the day:

Ryan sending Jared's Roof Stand (and no, thats not chalk, it's snow).

Ryan almost flashing The Smell (note: he sent about a week later)!

SPRING BREAK!

The primary goal of this climbing trip for me was unlike previous trips. Even though a small part of me wanted to focus on my ticklist, I decided to treat this trip more as a vacation (ignore school + climb fun problems + live in the dirt = my ‘vacation’). On the drive to Utah we stopped off somewhere a little west of Twin Falls so Nate could ‘drop’ a waterfall. Here's a picture:

This was my first time in Joe’s Valley, but I had been to Triassic 2 years prior. Days 1 and 2 were spent in Triassic, and I wasn’t too thrilled about it, after being there for a few minutes I was ready for Joe’s. Day 3 was spent in New Joe’s. Nate and I worked Big Boy (I really liked this problem, despite not sticking the cruxy-big-boyish move), then Self Service V4. My send of the day was definitely Chips V7. Nate also sent Chips along with Planet of the Apes a V6 that looked waay harder than Chips (ahh grades, gotta love ‘em).

(This is about the time when all the days just blend together.)

Next up was Right Fork. I had two super fun sends at the Mansize area. Porcini or Portobello V7 was by far one of my favorite sends of the trip. To me it was the best of both worlds. The problem combined one of my weaknesses (powerful moves on slopey edges) to one of my strengths (a slightly heady, yet someone relaxing slab/down climb). I also flashed a V5 Dyno here (yeah I know I’m still in disbelief).

Nate’s friend Marcus came down from Salt Lake (aka SL,UT) and we climbed at the Riverside area. My two other favorite sends of the trip were in this area. First we got on Feels Like Grit V5?. Right when I looked at the problem I decided not to use the arête. Sticking (literally) to the super tiny crimps on the face was definitely the preferred method of sending in my opinion. Ahh I love me some slab! Next up was Kelly’s Arête V5(I think). Being kinda highball-ish, I loved it for that reason alone. The movement and committing top out added this climb to my top 3 sends of the trip.

So far I have covered my sends of the trip, so I guess it’s time to go over my (insert word for opposite of send: here). Midway through the week I tried Wills A Fire V6. Within 30 minutes or so I found myself at the top, pumped and reaching for the last slopey dish on the TOP of the boulder… Moments later I was on the pads, WTF?! I ended up EPICing on this problem on the last day (my body was just too tired). Oh well, it’s just a reason to go back. My other “epic fail” of the trip was G2-07 V8. After watching Nate work and send the problem, I started to work it. A few goes later, I found myself throwing for the lip. Realizing that I couldn’t make the span, I got frustrated (internally threw a ‘wo-man-trum’). Probably fell throwing for the lip close to 10 times before I threw in the towel. Again, it’s just another reason to go back. I’m not bitter, but I am definitely a little disappointed in my performance on those 2 problems. In my mind failure is a more motivating force, so I guess it’s time to focus on training again. My goal for the rest of the spring is to master tick-tocks (a super gnar core exercise) and improve my endurance (through traversing/annoying people at the Front by climbing sideways on the bouldering wall, GASP!)

Here are some of my favorite pictures from the week:

Nate on an unknown arête problem in Triassic

A unique way of getting the driver's attention. Filler, Idaho

Overall, the week was just what I needed it to be, an escape from school. Now, I just need to somehow survive the next 6 weeks of classes, then it’s summer(climb-time)!

New York Knee

This past weekend I traveled to northern Idaho for the Palouse Climbing Festival. On the way up to the University of Idaho (located in Moscow, Idaho), we stopped in Riggins to do a little bouldering. This was my first time at the Ruby Boulders and I was so taken aback by the landscape that I honestly had no desire to climb. So I pulled out my camera and shot a few photos.

Plaid... It's so hot right now.

After 3 hours of climbing during qualifying, a few of us went out to this sushi restaurant, that was apparently 'pretty good'. I walked out of that restaurant with some new knowledge of the food industry, you truly get what you pay for... A $4 spicy tuna roll, tastes just like a $4 spicy tuna roll should...

Still with a few hours to kill before finals, we wondered the streets of Moscow. I bought this suber (super + uber) rad wallet made from recycled tent material, stoked. Went to a coffee shop to attempt to get some homework done, but after completing a few physics problems I pasted out on a couch.

Finals (as usual) consisted of me being on the verge of puking (not the biggest fan of climbing in front of 50 people), and not climbing as well as I should have. I flashed (completed on the first attempt) the first finals route. I knew ahead of time that I was going to have difficulties with the second and last finals route because it was on the steep, overhanging wall. Both previous years I attended this competition, I did poorly on the finals route on this wall, so I wasn't sure how it was going to work out. On my flash go, I fell going for the second to last hold (this is when the fun starts). While I was falling my spotter didn't realized I was going to slightly turn in the air. So when I landed my face collided with his knee. After attempting to gather myself, I stumbled back to the start of the route and tried it again, only to fall half way through the route.

I quickly acquired some ice for my face and waited for the awards ceremony. I ended up tying for first, but because my score from qualifying was higher, I got to chose my prize first! I had been eyeing this case of Red Bull on the prize table, but settled on an MSR 2-Man backpacking tent.

On Monday I headed out to the Catalysis boulder. Yes, it was raining. And yes, the top of the boulder was completed saturated with water. But if Tommy Caldwell can send in the rain, why can't I?! I managed to stick the soaking wet slopey crimp at the top twice, before calling it a day. Hoping to get back out there later this week when its sunny!

Tired Little Lady

Having 4-day weekends is pretty awesome, but the downside is, come Monday night I can barely function. This weekend I went to Sun Valley to spend time with some family, hang out with friends, and help out with Marley in the Mountains. Friday night I went on a little photo excursion which included stops at Dollar Mountain and Trail Creek. Here are some of my favorite shots from Friday:

Andrew with Baldy in the background.

Saturday I organized the recycling for the Marley in the Mountains concert, so basically I stood around outside for 7 hours or so. The concert itself was EPIC! Great artists, great turn out, and it snowed! I got to celebrate my recent birthday with some friends and my brother, which involved drinking a beer I thought was gross and drinking a cocktail that made me realize that I'd rather have Red Bull without being paired with vodka.

Sunday I went on yet another little photo excursion (not to many things to do in a small resort town, when you chose NOT to go skiing/snowboarding). After a brief stop at Dollar, Andrew and I ended up back out Trail Creek, this time opting to trudge through the snow to find things to shoot. Again, here are some of my favorite shots:

Drew Deffe with the new Dollar Lodge in the reflection (thought I should point out that this NEW lodge is not nearly as epic as the previous one).

Photo: Andrew McKean

Sunday evening I went out to dinner with my mom, brother and some extended family to celebrate Heidi's (my half-step-cousin) birthday. Since my new favorite thing to do is take pictures, I decided this was a perfect opportunity to learn about shooting in low light with no flash.

Little Caz, getting to the candles before his mom even had a chance.

Thomas and friends.

(Monday, finally. See 4-day weekends are exhausting.) After a session with my favorite masseur, Bob Coplin, and lunch with my brother at Wise Guy, I drove the 3.5 hours to Reynolds Creek to work on my project, Catalysis. Since it was late in the day, I decided not to warm up (most likely not the best idea). I was able to put in a few good goes and make some progress (hah, and I thought I was close last week). Here is a little vid I threw together of one of my best goes:

Catalysis: Day 4 from steffcarter on Vimeo.