After being back at it for about a month I decided to try my hand at Gemini, a 5.12a with perfectly crafted crimps. On my third go I fell after my hand just barely grazed the hold on the crux move. (I'd been climbing for six years and that was my first legit whipper.) Once back on the ground, I realized I was more excited than terrified. After a sufficient rest period I tied back in and sent it next go.
Andrew McKean flashing Gemini 5.12a
Shaken not Stirred 12a (Photo: Beau Stuart)
Ghost in the Shell 12b (Photo: Andrew McKean)
On September 5th I completed my goal of sending five 5.12s by sending both Chapstick 12a and Martini 12a in the same day. That day I also red pointed an 11a warm-up route that had previously eluded me and on the hike back to the car I told myself it was time to try something harder.
I had put in one top rope go on Pure Rock Fury 5.13b a few weeks prior. At the time I decided it was too hard for me and I wasn't at 'that' level yet. But after the ego boost I got from reaching my previous goal well before I thought I would and spending a few weeks climbing with uber-strong and equally psyched climbers, I decided to give it a go.
On my second go on lead I hung twice! All of a sudden I had a project that I could not stop thinking about. I wanted, more than anything, to send this route. With four monos, super tiny/sharp pockets, and a fun crimp sequence, I decided this route was a perfect project for me. (The fact that it's extremely well protected was an added bonus.)
Pure Rock Fury 13b (Photo: Ian Cavanaugh)